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5-June, Rome
Ride-about
We got up the nerve to
pedal our way around the city today and saw way too many incredible
sites to put everything here, but here are a few. By the end of the day,
we came to the
conclusion, for brave souls, a bike is THE ONLY way to see the city. It
was odd though that we were just about the only people on bikes we saw the
entire day. So, maybe it is a little dangerous, or maybe we were risking
getting them stolen or vandalized, but for this one day at least, the bike
gods were looking down on us.

The Tempio di
Minerva Medica (Temple of Minerva).
This is ruin is
wedged between the railroad tracks and busy streets. Nobody seems to know
exactly what the purpose or construction date was for this structure, but it
most historians seem to agree that it was built in the Republic period (between
500 BC and 27 AD). The dome was intact until 1828 and was probably the
inspiration for the large number of domes that were built throughout the Roman
Empire (and follows through to modern times in all of our state and national
capital buildings).

We decided to
take a break from the traffic and make a loop through a large park (Parco
Traiano). This is a large area with ruins scattered throughout. This
was part of
Domus Aurea, or Nero's House.
Nero became emporor in 54 when his mother
poisoned his stepfather Claudius (Nero later killed his mother) and was forced
to commit suicide in 68 after years of goofing off. The final straw was
his building the Domus Aurea, a vast array of nyphaeums, banquette rooms, bath
houses, gardens and fountains. Nero is noted for the Emperor who stood by
while Rome burned in 64 AD. He blamed the fire on the Christians thus
setting into motion centuries of persecution of the Christians. From the
edge of the park, you can look down on the Colosseum. In Nero's day, the
ground that the Colosseum now stands on, was filled with water as a man-made
lake

This is
Santa
Maria Maggiori basilica. It's the fourth of the great churches of Rome and the
largest dedicated to the Virgin Mary. This is one of the few basilicas
that has maintained its original form and characteristics. It was founded
by Pope Liberius in the fourth century. This is where we bought (Matt's) Mom's
Rosary.

This is one of
the many beautiful ceiling panels found in St. Maria's. These paintings
are not just on the ceiling but on just about every wall and ceiling on all the
churches we went in. Incredible is an understatement. Your jaw
literally drops again and again as you walk around this place.

We couldn't miss
the
Pantheon. First builty in 27 BC it was
damaged in a fire and rebuilt in 117-138. This monument contains the tombs of
Italian Kings including the first under the Unified Italy and renaissance
painters including Raphael. It was built to commemorate the Roman Gods but
rededicated in 609 as a Christian church. This is where we had (Matt's)
Mom's rosary blessed (by a priest that looked and sounded like Benny Hill).

We ran into a
little trouble with the Roman Soldiers here. They were suspicious of us
from the get-go having never seen bicycles before (although
Leonardo da Vinci gets credit for
sketching the first primitive bicycle in 1493, the first one with pedals wasn't
invented until 1863).

After a long
and bloody battle, the victorious
soldiers made off with their spoils.

Piazza Navona is
a long narrow plaza filled with tour groups, street vendors and mimes. The
piazza sits on the location of an ancient circus where chariot races, jousting
and of course, circuses once took place. The statue behind Lynette is one
of three fountain/statues that was completed around 1651 by
Bernini.

Sitting in
traffic for a photo of Palazzo di Giustizia. This is actually a new
building built between 1888 and 1910 and is the home of today's Supreme Court of
Appeals.

Statues on
Ponte S. Angelo (a
bridge over the Tiber river) leading to Castle S. Angelo.
Not sure when the bridge was built but the statues were added in 1670.
Here's a link that describes each statue.

Ponte S. Angelo
delivers pedestrians right to
Castle S. Angelo. This huge building was
built in 130-139 by emperor Hadrian as a mausoleum to himself. Over the
years, five popes have been killed, mostly by strangulation and poisoning,
within the walls of the castle. The statue at the top is of Archangel
Michael sheathing his sword. This was a vision that St. Gregory the Great
had in 590 while praying on the bridge for the end of the plague. As it
turns out, the vision did indeed coincided with the end of the plague.

We rode our
bikes into
Saint Peters Plaza in the Vatican and through
the pillars around one side before the police told us we had to walk them.
When we tried to lock them up they said we couldn't lock them inside the square
(hey dude, this place is round). So we walked them out and tried locking
them up there but a couple of Vatican cops stopped us again and said we had to
move them even farther... so we did.

The Pope's
apartment.

Never mind
the gay guys making out in the lower left.
After walking
around for a while, we went back to the bikes and were unlocking them when a nun
walked by and chewed us out in Italian telling us the police would get us if we
left them there. We nodded and rode off.

On the Vittorior
Emarruele bridge over the Tevere (Tiber) river with Castle S. Angelo behind.

The
Roman Forum was the most celebrated place in
ancient Rome. The columns in the foreground are what is left of the Temple
of Saturn, the oldest sacred place in Rome. The temple was dedicated in
498 BC. The three columns on the right side of the picture are what is
left of the Temple of Castor. Built in 484 BC, it was the meeting
place for the senate. The forum was rebuilt by Octavian, Caesar's adopted
son, after the defeat of Antony and Cleopatra in 31 BC. By the 4th
century AD the place began to fall into ruins.

We decided
(once again) to take a path through a park to get away from the traffic, not
knowing that we would get a beautiful view of the Palatino Ruins. These
are at the edge of the area known as
Palatino Hill where (by tradition) the first
Roman settlers built their huts under the direction of
Romulus.

It was getting
late, so we picked up the pace so we'd get back to the hotel by dark.
Along the way we decided to get a shot of today's Rome. It's awe inspiring
to look at all the ancient artifacts but today's Rome seems to be all about graffiti... It covers most everything outside the ancient city
walls... even trucks weren't immune if they were left sitting in one place too
long. We talked to some locals and they said it was a daily (loosing)
battle covering up what the taggers do every night.

It was getting
dark and we didn't want to spend too much time waiting for a sit down dinner.
So what the heck... why not eat McDonalds while in Rome.
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